El Popocatépetl también cumple
Antonio Analco Sevilla lleva casi toda su vida subiendo al volcán Popocatépetl. Desde chico sueña con Don Goyo, ese señor muy…
Antonio Analco Sevilla lleva casi toda su vida subiendo al volcán Popocatépetl. Desde chico sueña con Don Goyo, ese señor muy gordo, muy viejo y cuyos pies no tocan el suelo.
Don Goyo es el espíritu del volcán Popocatépetl que se comunica con el señor Antonio, tiempero de la comunidad Santiago Xalitzintla, el pueblo más cercano al volcán, cuando duerme.

Santiago Xalitzintla es una comunidad en el municipio de San Nicolás de los Ranchos, es la última antes de que terminen la ciudad y las construcciones y empiece a erguirse el imponente volcán que domina la vida de la región y a cuyo alrededor gira la realidad de los pueblos cercanos de Puebla, Morelos y el Estado de México.
El tiempero sabe qué llevarle a Don Goyo para pedir lluvia y buena cosecha, y cuatro veces al año sube con el pueblo y visitantes para llevarle ofrendas, festejarlo y hacer rituales.
La primera subida es el 12 de marzo, cuando se festeja el cumpleaños de Don Goyo; ese día cientos de personas emprenden la peregrinación que dura dos horas en camión y entre tres y cuatro horas más de caminata sobre tierra negra y piedras volcánicas.
Pero en sí misma la subida es un ritual. Cuando el pavimento se termina hay que subir dos horas por terracería, curvas y vados en medio de un camino boscoso donde muchos vehículos se estancan y se quedan a la mitad del camino. Al menos dos veces un camión de redilas se para porque se calentó el motor y otra camioneta pierde otras dos la llanta. Aunque los coches llegan lo más arriba que pueden en un punto deben detenerse y empezar la subida a pie, en el último tramo de bosque de la montaña antes que se convierta en volcán.
La primera parte es la más empinada y el sol apenas se ve entre las copas de los árboles que suben de un monte a otro hasta que al final se aprecia una planicie: el arenal. Ahí termina la parte boscosa e inicia el paisaje volcánico, cubierto de arena negra y densa donde los árboles desaparecen. Al fondo, muy cerca –pero más lejos de lo que parece– está el cráter de Don Goyo, hasta donde se puede llegar caminando cuatro horas más.
Para llegar hasta la boca del cráter no hay caminos cerrados, ni avisos, ni vigilancia.

El ritual se hace en una formación rocosa conocida como “el ombligo del volcán”, que está a menos de 3 kilómetros del cráter, y es el único punto donde hay sombra en medio de un paraje que parece de otro planeta: piso de arena negra que pareciera movediza y te chupa los pasos al caminar, matas de pasto seco esparcidas cada dos o tres metros y los esqueletos de árboles muertos, con tramos tapizados de piedra porosa directa de las entrañas del volcán y rocas negras brillantes. Todo eso cubierto por los rayos del sol y el impactante silencio del cráter del volcán.
Al llegar al ombligo, el tiempero coloca una cruz y reza con la comunidad; los visitantes pueden dejar ofrendas de comida y objetos e incluso ofrendar el sacrificio de la caminata para llegar a verlo. Después del ritual le cantan las mañanitas a Don Goyo, le echan porras, le truenan cuetes y comparten comida y bebida mientras una leve fumarola sale del volcán saludando a los visitantes.
Don Antonio dice que cuando algo va a pasar el Padre Celestial le ordena a Don Goyo, quien a su vez le avisa a él en sueños un día antes, para que tenga tiempo de alertar a los pueblos cercanos y estar libres de riesgo.
La siguiente subida es el 2 de mayo para amanecer el 3, y ese día ir hasta el Iztaccíhuatl y festejar a Rosita, el espíritu de la montaña; el último ritual anual es el 30 de agosto, cuando se sube otra vez.
Después de su cumpleaños don Goyo estará tranquilo, al menos hasta que los últimos que lo festejan bajen de las faldas del cráter. (Texto de Aranzazú Ayala de ladobe.com.mx)
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